| Since the islands were colonized, mahu
has broadened to include cross-dressers, drag
queens, female impersonators, and transsexuals.
The term has taken on a bit of a derogatory and
negative connotation in recent years, which is
why the local Tahitians prefer the term rae rae.
Rae rae is the term that is most commonly
used now to describe transvestites. The rae rae
in the islands are pretty well respected in fact.
They tend to have jobs in the service industry
and you’ll definitely come across them in
the hotels, restaurants, in dance performances,
and on the airlines.
There have been many conflicting stories
and articles that have been written about the
rae raes and how this phenomenon occurred throughout
Polynesia. The most common theory was that a family
that did not have any girls would raise one of
the boys as a girl. Over the years reports have
noted that it was the first boy, or the second
boy, or the last boy, or the forth boy. If you
ask a rae rae that was raised this way, meaning
it was not necessarily by choice to be raised
as a girl, they will probably tell you that there
was no rule as to which child it was in terms
of order.
Today, although Tahitians are no longer choosing
to raise one of their boys as a girl as their
ancestors had, there is a new generation of rae
rae – those who have chosen this path. Anthony
Bourdain’s “No Reservations”
French Polynesia included a segment with interviews
of five rae raes. Shot on the waterfront in Papeete
at les roulottes, these girls had dinner with
Tony and then took him to the Piano Bar for some
drinks and dancing.
The Lonely Planet guide on Tahiti and French
Polynesia offers readers a pretty good description
of gay friendly Tahiti and her Islands:
“There are no networks or associations
for gays in French Polynesia but French Laws prevail
and there is no legal discrimination against homosexual
activity. Homophobia in French Polynesia is uncommon.
You will meet a lot of very camp mahu working
in restaurants and hotels…The Scorpio disco
behind the Vaima Centre in Papeete is popular
centre for popa'a (western) gays as well as rae
rae, but it’s also frequented by heterosexuals.”
Comments from Tahiti Travel Specialist Angelo
Chaddad
For those who enjoy shopping, there is plenty
to choose from around the island of Tahiti. Shops
are opened from Monday to Friday 7:30 am to 11:30
am and from 1:30 pm to 5 pm/6 pm. Most of them
are open on Saturday mornings are closed on Sunday.
In Papeete, the market is open every day. The
food market is located on the basement but in
this 3-floor building, you can find all kinds
of souvenirs, locally made clothing, accessories
and beauty products, pareus, hats, Tahitian cultured
black pearls, perfumes, soaps, creams and body
oils, flavored teas and coffees. Tahitian black
pearls are world famous for their quality and
what better place to buy them than in their place
of origin.
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Nightlife is pretty low-key – as Tahiti
is a very relaxing, rejuvenating destination.
There are however several small nightclubs in
downtown Papeete. From the main hotels in Tahiti,
a cab ride would run about 3000 CFP (about $35
USD with the current exchange rate – to
check today’s exchange, please visit: www.oanda.com)
At the Piano Bar you’ll find some
of the servers are drag-queens with high heals
and vertical hair-doos – it’s easy
to spot them from all corners of the club to order
drinks, etc. The club is pretty big with about
4 or 5 different rooms which more or less progress
in a circular shape. All the rooms are inside,
but the air-conditioning seems to hold pretty
well for the demand and to neutralize all the
cigarette smoke.
Music is excellent! A house mix of French/American
music with local Polynesian tunes. The crowd is
80% gay and 20% wild/straight. Lots of beautiful
looking transvestites that aim for perfection.
Some regular local gay people, which were easily
recognized, but most were American and European
tourists. Many crewmembers from cruise ships docked
right in front of town as well. 1500 CFP (about
$20 USD) to get in, which includes one free drink.
They also serve local and imported beer and
an array of mixed drinks. We learned that the
drag-queen shows are only during the week on Wednesdays
and Thursdays. Weekends they are very crowded
and have beer bust on Sunday night.
Angelo Chaddad
Value Vacation LLC
San Francisco, CA
(415) 824-2550
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